Open the points cover and turn the crankshaft clock-wise with a large adjustable wrench, or better, a 23mm socket. In this example, I'm going to adjust the #4 exhaust valve by turning the crankshaft until #1 exhaust valve opens and stops moving. Continue turning the crankshaft a couple more degree, hopefully, finding the middle of the top of the lobe. If the valve starts to rise, it's ok up to about 1/32 of and inch, but no further.
To adjust #4 exhaust, undo the lock nut. This is what I used my large torque wrench for (as breaker bar) the first time I did it.
Use the common screwdriver to keep the adjuster screw from moving.
Ok, using the feeler gauge.
better wrench-click on image
In order to get this sucker in between the valve and the adjusting screw, you have to curve it in. If you place the end of the (in this case) .003 feeler gauge at the top of the valve spring retaining washer, and move it upward about a quarter inch or so, you'll feel it go into the slot. If it won't, the gap is to small and you must unscrew the adjuster.
Learning the correct slipperiness of the tension felt, comes from a lot of experience, but there is another way to get it right...
which is discussed on page 3.
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