Honda CB motorcycle Fork Seal replacement and Fork Tube fix.

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Using a 10mm socket, drain the fork oil from within both fork tubes. 

 

Looking upward

Raise the front wheel off the ground.  Here you see I built a "T" brace out of 2x4 and plywood, with a "V" cut at the top, and I've blocked the front wheel with a wedge, also cut from a 2x4.

 

(Left) Using a 10mm open end wrench and 5mm Allen wrench to remove the speedo cable from the wheel's hub (Set the cable end upward somewhere or the cable will fall out of its housing).  Next (right), with 14mm socket, remove the 4 nuts on both axle holders and set aside.  Again, I set everything aside in order to put every nut and all parts in exactly the same place they came off.  I feel that consistency is a big part of easier diagnostics.  Remove the front wheel.

 

Now remove the fender and brake caliper.  Use a coat hanger or other wire to carefully hang the caliper off the cross tube just below the neck.  Do this, bending the flexible brake line as little as possible.

Loosen the top bolt of each fork tube with a large crescent wrench.  Don't undo it.  Its internal spring will launch it in your face, or across the room....the way I get this done (at right) is to wedge the box end of a 15mm wrench between the handle bars and the bolt so that once the bolt is loose, it can be undone with a QUALITY pair of needle-nose pliers.  Anybody got an easier way, I'd love to here it!!

 

Before removing the tubes, you may consider placing a block underneath.  They're heavier than they look.  (right) 1st, using 10mm open end and Phillips undo the head light mounting (I leave my headlight housing hanging in place if possible, if so remove the seal beam so the weight won't stress the wires or to prevent any damage to the bulb).  Also undo the two other bolts holding the tube in the triple-tree.  14mm on bottom and 10mm on top.  The tube will slide out freely if it isn't blocked or held up at the bottom.

 

Set the tube(s) in a clean area.  In the photo you can see the length of broomstick cut to approximately 18 7/8s inches, used to hold the tube innards in place for undoing the shock from the tube (shown on next page).

The length of the broomstick may varry on individual bikes due to spring compress, or wear.  (Below)  You see what length and how to figure the length to cut.

Notice the broomstick is cut to extend just above the threads near the top of the tubes.  These threads hold the top cap bolt that retains the spring.  It is difficult to screw the bolt in if the length is correct, and put a good amount of tension between the tube and the shock at the bottom so its fastener can be undone without spinning. 

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