| The next, when things are parallel, nip the pivot arm to the fork leg, then measure the gap left between the top mounting points of the fork and the top mounts of the pivot arm, and then filed back a pair of washers to fit in these gaps ,in (FIG3) you see the rear mount shim, and in (fig 4) you see the front mount shim. |
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| you will also notice how parallel the
caliper pivot arm and the disc are, this is essential to this set up working properly. Ok now we have the pivot arm all nice and parallel, you would have also noticed by now, that you have to try and get bolt done up when the wheel is on, don’t uses socket head caps screws as the mounting bolts like I did, you eve tried getting an allen key between a wheel to do them up!!!, stick to bolts for this application, another thing you are going to have to remove one of the calipers if you want to remove the wheel in the future.. the wheel and tire just don’t fit between the two pivot arms when they are both bolted on… there is always a downside to something. Now while looking at the bike from the front mount the guard to the right side first using the bolts and washers that came off that side,, on the left side use your 8mmx35 bolt and washer, on the lower mount. You will find at this point you may need to slightly bend your guard mount a little to get the pivot arm behind it (fig 4), the guard has rubber grommets in the it, take them out, now you need 6mm washers between the guard mount and the pivot arm, and then you need 6mm washers between your bolts and the other side of the guard mount( the guard mount is sandwiched between the washers), this stops the guard from moving round and makes for a more solid plate form for you to tighten the upper pivot arm bolts. Ok now you should have the pivot arm, ad the guard fitted, and everything should still be parallel, now to fit the adjuster screw, you will notice that the adjuster screw mount on the fork is in a different spot to the other fork, hence why I put the lock nut on the inside , there just wasn’t any room on the outside, you will see this in figure 4. Ok to the caliper, I would suggest that you rebuild them b4 you put them on the bike, nothing worse than getting some thing finished to have to pull it apart again… the caliper just mounts the same as the normal factory caliper, its just reversed, so nothing hard there, the steel brake line runs the same, though you may have to zip tie it to the guard, because there is no line holder on this side (fig 3). |
| Ok now you need your new lower brake line, and the double banjo fitting, this is best explain with fig 5 |
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| you will notice that I am using stainless braided lines… got my local hydraulics shop to make them for me, but the standard factory lines will fit
also, connect you steel line(fig4) to your new lower line, and this part of the
conversion is done. |
| Onto the mater cylinder. I have used a master cylinder of f of a VTR1000f (fig 6), and that is only because I had one laying round, but the mastercylinder from any twin disc bike will do as long as it fits the handle bars, I have been told that you can use a master cylinder off a GL1500 goldwing, so that will make the system look more authentic |
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| now all that is left is to bleed the system, I think there is enough said about bleeding brakes to not warrant me going through it… this is a well worth while mod, and when done correctly gives huge improvement over the standard set up, I hope this has been
helpful. |
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