When you pull the float retaining pin the float valve needle will fall out of the float valve.  Arrange them in order.

        Not shown is the four penny nail I used, to push the pin out far enough to get the pliers on them, the first time I removed the float pins, about two and half years ago.  This time they came out pretty easy.  I found that each pin came out easier one direction or the other...do it the easiest way it'll come out (try both directions).  Try and be careful not to tear them up with pliers.  You might use some WD-40 or Liquid Wrench to work on any corrosion.  Use the Liquid Wrench only as a last resort if you've got plastic floats (like mine).  You can cover the plastic part of the float with a baggy if you really need to spray the heck out of 'em.  Note:  I don't know how a corrosion eater like liquid wrench will effect the plastic on the floats, but I don't wan'a take the chance. 

        In the photo below, you see how I've laid everything out.  In the green circle, and the other pins, I've set them on the side of the float that the pin came out easiest.  I always do this work in a place where I can lay things out that they won't be moved until I'm ready for assembly.

It's a pretty good idea, while you're soaking the carb bodies, to float the floats to make sure they have no leaks.  You can do this in water (for safety - leaving them in an hour or so), but afterwards spray them thoroughly with WD-40.

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