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After rotating the engine to the proper "1T" mark as shown on the previous page, check the gap of both intake and exhaust valves for cylinder #1. The correct gap of all valves should be ".004". In the photo, you'll see 2 feeler blades in use. A standard way of getting the right gap is to slide in the correct feeler, and then the next size thicker (.005). It should not go in readily. | |
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| Note: The wrench I'm using (one of my favorites) is a Craftsman "10mm/11mm box end with 1 inch offset. HERE | ||||
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If adjustment is necessary, loosen the locknut while holding the adjustment screw in place. Just loosen the locknut enough to turn the adjuster. Tighten or loosen the adjuster until the .004 feeler blade has a little tension, and the .005 feeler won't go in at all, or without considerable effort. Then retighten the locknut and recheck. It may take a few times to get this right. | |||
| Do both, the intake and exhaust valves. The lock nuts need to be snug, but too tight will wear them out. | ||||
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Now the next cylinder in the firing order (1-3-2-4). We'll use the "2T" mark. Remember that cylinders 1 and 2 are done on the "1T" mark and cylinders 3 and 4 are done on the "2T" mark (left). | |||
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Rotate the engine until the marks are as shown (above). |
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| Check both valves on the #3 cylinder, they should have some free play, if they're tight and #4's valves are loose, the rotate the engine again and back to the "2T" timing mark. | ||||
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Adjust if necessary remembering ".004" should fit and ".005" should not. | |||
| Now you can move to the left side of the bike for the other two cylinders. | ||||
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(1-3-2-4)
Follow the same procedure for cylinder #2 (front left) from the "1T"
timing mark . Refer to page 2 for valve positions.
".004" fits, ".005" doesn't. |
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| Finally the last cylinder in the firing order (1-3-2-4), rear left. | ||||
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Cylinder #4 adjusted from the "2T" timing mark. | |||
