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Ok, first you'll need to access the timing marks. Unscrew the cap (it's about an inch and a half in diameter) located just behind the carburetors on the left side on top of the block. You may need to get a giant sized screwdriver if it hasn't been off in a long time. |
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Remove both valve covers. A 10mm socket or box end wrench is required. Note; these bolts can break, taking them out is not usually a problem, but if they feel stuck, gentle tapping with a mallet or padded hammer is in order. Be sure and tap in the same direction as the bolt, no diagonal force should be applied. I'll discuss putting them back in later, and how to remove a | ||
| broken end from the head. Notice the paper towel, you will lose 3 or 4 drops of oil when removing each cover. | |||
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The engine must be rotated to the correct mark (TDC between the compression and power stroke) for each cylinder's valves. You see in the photo that I use the kick starter, however, circled is the access cap to the end bolt of the alternator. The engine may be rotated there, but my personal conclusion concerning the task of getting tools on to the alternator end was that | ||
| it's more trouble than it's worth.. Using the kick starter takes a bit more strength and care to get the marks aligned, but I think easier overall. This is a matter of personal preference. | |||
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This photo and illustration shows you the timing marks on the flywheel. The illustration (below) shows you where the marks must be aligned in order to adjust the valves on each cylinder 1 and 2 (front cylinders). The firing order on this engine is 1-3-2-4, so we'll be starting with cylinder number 1, which is "front - right" (sitting on the bike). It is necessary to | ||
| find
TDC (top dead center) of the
compression stroke for the number
one cylinder. This is usually pretty easy. Rotate the engine
until the marks align as shown below, then check the rocker arms of the
number one cylinder. They should both have a bit of tolerance or
gap between the rocker arm and the end of the valve and you
should be at TDC or the compression stroke of cylinder #1. If they
are tight, check the rocker arms on #2. If #2's rockers are loose,
then rotate the engine 360 degrees, past the 2T mark and back to the 1T
mark and you'll find that the #1 cylinder is now ready and the rockers
should now be loose. I will illustrate this configuration on page
2.
Another way to find TDC of the compression stoke is to pull the plug of that cylinder and during rotation, air will push through the plug hole. Make sure that before pulling plugs that the area around the plug is free from debris that'll fall into the cylinder. I personally don't like removing the plugs unless necessary, so I use the following procedure (page2) |
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