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This section and its photographs will explain the procedure for replacing your Goldwing head stem bearings. The symptoms were: the bike was not comfortable holding a straight line at any speed; the steering was tighter than it needed to be; and after lifting the bike off the front wheel, the bearing felt notched and tight. |
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First of all, you'll see on the right and below that I'm building a stand for my GL1000 to sit on. I know that a lot of people may say to put a board under the engine and lift it with a floor, or other jack, but sorry...whether it's fine or not I'm not going to do it. I operate under the assumption that if something can go wrong, then it probably will. In my case the |
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statement has been true way too many times. A closer look reveals a "V" notch at the top of each vertical and a diagonal cut on the inside of each. |
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The diagonal cut allows extra room for the oil filter and water pump housings. You can also see that I've cut a 45 across the bottom of the base so the stand can be driven in place with a hammer more easily. The plywood is then screwed to each side for rigidity and strength. It is also a safety feature in the case of spiting, |
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| though I found that treated lumber is much less likely to split. Sheetrock or Decking screws fasten this together very quickly with a drill and Phillips head bit. | |||
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You can see that I lift the bike with a 2 ton "come-a-long" and cloth, or nylon type anchoring strap. I've also added extra 45 degree support beams to the garage's ceiling joists. You might think I over-do it, with all the extra support I add, but all it takes for something to go wrong....IS ONCE! |
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Ok, below you can see I've taken a hamer and knocked my stand into place. I then also, knock some quarter-round into the bottom of the "V" grooves to direct the weight downward instead of outward. |
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